MVWX655DW1 Maytag Washer Parts & Free Repair Help (2025)

I followed Matt's awesome video from AppliancePartsPros.com to build up my "I can do this" reserves. But here's the story leading up to that point...We purchased our Samsung WF419 on a “Black Friday” special November 2009 expecting to get some good years out of the washer/dryer pair. We don’t run more than 2 or 3 loads a week in the washer, so ours has had relatively little use over the beginning of its anticipated and expected long life-cycle. When the “thumping” started on the spin cycle a few months back, I just blew it off as an occasional out of balance load that wasn’t a big deal. Then the thumping became “very” noticeable and my wife said there was water leaking underneath. Well, nothing like a “leaking” and “thumping” washer to get your attention, so I thought I’d better look into the problem. After just a quick internet search, I found that these units have a “fatal flaw” that happens with a large number of them, even if you use them exactly as directed. We’ve never used anything other than the recommended “high efficiency” detergent and kept loads at a normal to light size, so what we found after taking the unit apart was quite shocking. The “spider” or drum shaft assembly had deteriorated into a metal mush and one of the 3 arms was completely cracked through. Also, the “thumping” we were hearing was the inner wash drum rubbing against the front half of the washers plastic housing and had sliced though the housing in 2 areas creating the leak we were experiencing. Wow, I really couldn’t believe a lightly used Samsung washing machine that was only 6 years old, could self-destruct like this. We had sold our “flawless” Maytag stackable after 15 years of continuous service (no issues ever) to “upgrade” to this Samsung set. Well, it goes without saying that I’m not real happy with this purchase now, and am only happy that I’m savvy enough to do this repair myself, with the help of the fabulous Appliancepartspros.com guys. Their website, videos, and of course staff have made diagnosis, disassembly, parts acquisition, and repair a much more comfortable experience. If you have this model and it starts to consistently spin out of balance, plan on a complete tear down of your washer or a VERY LARGE repair bill if you have a service company do the job.

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I watched a video on YouTube that showed my exact problem. It had a link to this part AP5665171 Hub and it showed how to fix it. It was a fairly simple fix. I did not even have to remove the tub. I popped the cap on top of the agitator plate (AGP), removed the bolt hold the AGP on. I tapped on the bolt several time to loosen it. Using an angled screw driver, carefully and slowly lifted up the edges of the AGP until I could use my fingers to carefully pull the AGP off the splined drive shaft (must use caution not to break the AGP). Removed the U-shaped locking clip, removed the 6 screws that holds the Hub to the Tub. The old Hub splines were very worn (almost non-existent). You could really see and feel the difference between the old & new hubs. I lined up and installed the new Hub, then did everything else in reverse order. Screws, u-clip, AGP, AGP bolt, cap. I then followed the "Re-calibration" procedure listed on the instruction packet that came with the Hub (it was also shown on the YouTube video). After that, the problem was resolved and the Tub and AGP worked properly and sounded much better (no grinding)! It could be done quickly but it takes some time and patience to get the AGP off without breaking. Also, cleaning off soap scum and other stuff (after 3 yrs of use) took extra time. In the video, they found coins under the AGP. I too found 3 very worn dimes underneath. Perhaps this had something to do with the failure. The washer was only 3yrs old at the time of this repair.

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Replaced washer drive block and Cam. I called around and finally settled on Appliance Parts Pros because they helped diagnose the problem, told me what parts to replace and had videos to show me how to do it. In completing the repair I had to remove quite a few pieces of hardware in order to get at the part I was to replace. The videos helped but there is a learning curve while you familiarize yourself with the parts and figure out how the remove them.Eventually I got to a large nut that, according to the video, needed a spanner wrench to remove. I didn't have the wrench but improvised with a large locking vice grip which worked fine. At this point everything was going well until I started removing the inner drum. It wouldn't budge. Frankly, the video didn't prepare me for the difficulty I would have in removing it. I searched around the internet and discovered this is a relatively common problem. Apparently soap and other stuff works it's way onto the shaft and over time solidifies and essentially glues the drum to the drive shaft. There were a lot of opinions online but what worked for me was a spray to free rusted parts - multiple applications - boiling water poured around the rim of the shaft and then finally pulling, shaking from side to side and pulling at the same time until it finally released.Other than the problem removing the inner drum the installation of the parts I ordered was pretty easy. The one thing I picked up somewhere online was a guy who said that if you think you're doing something wrong - you're not. It will eventually release. He was right. After all the time trying to remove the drum those few words gave me the encouragement to keep trying.

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New gearcase. Originally thought replacing bearing would solve the noise but after an online chat with AplliancePartsPro, they researched bearing replacement and advised my model did not have the capability of the bearing replacement of other Cabrio models and recommended the gearcase. Replacement was not too difficult--albeit time consuming. Lid removal is NOT what is shown for most washers (putty knife to front clips), you remove rear vertical clips and pull the lid forward. I did not have the specified spanner wrench but careful tapping (really bashing) of the hub nut with short drift and hammer and removal of 6 years of muck allowed removal of gear case. Note it still took some force with a wood block to tap out from the tub. Be careful as the case is a tight fit and will contact items under the tub thus takes some maneuvering to drop free. New gearcase--back to quiet, original operation!

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The part is so new no video so I went onto a similar part and watched video that got me about 80%. Then, called and customer service sent me a service Manual but this still was not specific so I broke the old to get it out and in the process figured out how to do it correctly. So I installed the last bit of it which was the bezel through the machine top by myself correctly. So you take the old one out by pushing out to the right from the bottom side using a screw driver for leverage. It will then lift up and then slide out to the left above the machine and come off. To put in, slide in to right from bottom and then engage left side by sliding to left and clicks in place. Then put wires under clips on hood side. Go through with wire and connect.

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